I left Aurangabad about 3 in the afternoon on the 9th on a bus heading to Fardapur, about 65 miles northeast. Before that, I had spent the day in Aurangabad trying to avoid the hot sun. At the hotel I had a leisurely breakfast and read a couple of newspapers before spending time at an internet cafe before lunch. It was a hot, but not too long, walk back to the hotel from the internet cafe about noon. I had lunch on their roof top cafe, which has an awning, but was still very hot in the middle of the day. I relaxed and read in the relativley cool lobby before leaving for the bus station.
The bus trip took about two hours, passing mostly through flat areas, but with hills just north of Aurangabad and just south of Fardapur. Just before Fardapur we came down a ravine, passing the turn off for the Ajanta Caves, and reached Fardapur on the plains, only about five miles from the caves. Fardapur is a small town, but with several hotels. I checked into a nice room and walked along the highway through town just at sunset, with dinner at the hotel afterward. I think I was the only guest at the hotel.
The next morning I watched the sun rise over a small hill from my one of my windows and made it to the Ajanta Caves about 9, when they opened to the public. These Buddhist caves, dating from the 2nd century BC to the 6th century AD, are located in the 250 foot high cliffs of a ravine formed by a horseshoe bend of the Waghora River. It is a very scenic site, though very dry this time of year without a drop of water in the riverbed. The pictures of it in the wet season, with everything green and waterfalls falling off the cliffs, are spectacular. The caves were cut into the cliffs to provide wet season accommodation for wandering Buddhist monks, about 200 of them, but were abandoned about the time the caves at Ellora were started. They were forgotten for over a thousand years before being rediscovered by a group of British officers hunting tigers in 1819. Thus, they managed to avoid damage by Muslims.
There are thirty caves (though about a third of them are closed) strung along the horseshoe bend, with the earliest (from the 2nd century BC) in the center. These have stupas representing Buddha. The later caves, from the 5th and 6th centuries AD, are on both ends. The most extraordinary thing about these caves is that they are filled with paintings, temperas painted on plaster applied to the rock cut walls. There is, of course, considerable concern about the deterioration of the paintings with so many people entering the caves to see them (though there were considerably fewer people at Ajanta than at Ellora). Many of the caves have low intensity lights, dehumidifiers and barriers before the paintings. Unfortunately, the barriers inside the caves, especially at the best paintings, keep you as much as thirty feet away from the paintings, which means you really can't make out the intricate details, and often can't see much at all. That was a real disappointment.
Cave 1 has a spectacular large painting of the bodhisattva Padmapani, and you can see that very well, but, as I said, the smaller details are almost impossible to pick out. The walls of that cave and the next one are covered with paintings, but the thirty foot barriers made viewing them very frustrating. As I went from cave to cave, there were some without barriers where you could get close to fragments of paintings and those were very interesting. There is also excellent sculpture, similar to that at Ellora. I spent more than six hours walking from cave to cave. In Cave 16 is the famous painting of the "Dying Princess," actually the wife of Buddha's brother, who is not dying but fainting on being told that her husband is leaving her to become a monk. It is very hard to see in the dark. Another cave is unfinished, but it is very interesting to see how they were cutting into the rock. It was very hot in the sun outside the caves, but, as at Ellora, cool inside. Fortunately, the caves are closer together than at Ellora. The last cave you can visit, Cave 26, has a large sculpted reclining Buddha, actually Buddha on his deathbed, and several other beautiful sculptures.
About 3:30 I climbed up steps from the riverbed to a look out point opposite the caves about 200 feet above the riverbead, and from there made a further climb, rising about 300 feet in elevation, to the point where the caves were first seen by the tiger hunters in 1819. (Their leader was named John Smith and you can see his name carved onto a painted pillar in the Cave 10, the one he first spotted and the oldest cave at Ajanta.) That was a hot climb (my thermometer read 106), but the view was worth it. When I reached the top I drank the very warm last remaining gulps from my bottle of water. Hot water never tasted so good. I walked down to the dry riverbed, and then along it, reaching the entrance about 5:30, when the caves close. I drank two liters of cold water upon arrival there.
Back at the hotel that evening, I watched cricket on television. India's professional cricket league season has just started. The league games have different rules and take only something like four hours to play, rather than the five days needed for "test" cricket, the original game. I watched the Bangalore Royal Challengers versus the Kolkata Knight Riders. There were cheer leaders, all of them western women.
I left Fardapur shortly after 9 the next morning, taking a bus heading back towards Aurangabad, passing the turn off to the caves and heading up the ravine into the hills. I took it only as far as the town of Ajanta, about seven miles from Fardapur and on the higher flatlands reached by the ravine. From there I caught a bus headed east to Buldana through an area with very rich looking black soil. Much of it was ploughed, waiting for planting with the coming of the monsoon, I guess. There were remnants of crops of wheat and cotton. From Buldana I caught another bus headed southeast to Mehkar, and from Mekhar a final bus south to Lonar, arriving about 2. I took an autorickshaw to a hotel on the outskirts of town on the edge of the Lonar Crater, formed 50,000 years ago when a meteorite hit. The crater is more than a mile in diameter and about 450 feet deep. It is said to be the world's third largest, after one in Arizona and one in Ghana.
I checked into the hotel, had lunch there, and about 3 started down the trail right across the road from the hotel into the crater. A green, alkaline lake fills much of the crater, bordered by a green forest. The sloping walls of the crater are mostly grassy and yellow at this time of year, with some trees. It didn't take long to walk down, less than twenty minutes, and I descended only a little more than 300 feet by my altimeter. I passed an old, deserted temple just before reaching the floor. It was relatively cool in the shade of the trees on the crater floor, and I began a walk around the lake, going clockwise.
There was a good trail at first, passing several old, deserted temples, one filled with bats and another with langur monkeys. There were lots of birds, too, in the trees and on the lake. Further on, I came across a huge band of langurs, maybe thirty or forty of them. They are incredible leapers and fun to watch. A little further on, I came to an active temple on the edge of the lake, with a few pilgrims and even more monkeys. The trail got rougher after that and I reached a nice spot, a deserted temple just across the lake from where I had come down the crater wall. The trail continued, but with quite a few briers, scratching my legs. I saw some peafowl, mostly peahens, I think. They flew off before I could get too close. They are very ungainly fliers.
Coming almost full circle around the lake, I lost the trail in an agricultural area, mostly bananas, but finally made my way to just below the path I had come down, about three hours after starting. It had clouded up a bit. I have seen so very few clouds during this very dry five months of traveling in India. The sun set and I watched a group of peafowl gathered in a clearing. One beautiful male was with several hens. The hens, once they realized I was nearby, fluttered off into the trees, but the peacock lingered a little longer. A little stream is nearby, and langurs were gathered there to drink. I climbed up out of the crater and got back to the hotel just as it got dark, about 7. I had dinner out on the terrace of the almost empty hotel restaurant, overlooking the crater and facing a very nice evening breeze.
I got up about 6:30 the next morning and sat on the terrace just outside my room, where it was much cooler than in my room. There were birds and squirrels in the nearby trees and it was very pleasant out there. I decided to spend another day in Lonar rather than face more hot bus travel across the Deccan. After breakfast overlooking the crater, I walked down into the crater about 9 and walked along the path under the trees to the active temple on the lake's southern shore, passing lots of langurs and birds. (The hotel is just east of the crater.) I turned around and came back and was back at the hotel about noon. It was a little cloudy by then, but still a hot climb up. I had lunch and spent the hot part of the afternoon at the hotel. I tried to take a nap but it was too hot in my room. It was nicer on the restaurant terrace facing the breeze.
I walked down again about 5, again heading to the active temple on the southern side of the lake and seeing lots of langurs. I came back to the lake's eastern shore and watched the sun, reflected in the lake, set over the crater walls. I spotted two peacocks (India's national bird) in the clearing before I climbed up the crater walls just before dark and again enjoyed the cool breeze from the west during dinner.
The electricity failed the next morning at 6 and I was awakened as my fan stopped revolving. I got up soon after and sat out in the cool air of my terrace. Thirty people from Bombay were scheduled to arrive at the hotel that day (I had been about the only guest), but I left before they arrived. After breakfast at the hotel, I caught a bus north back to Mehkar about 9, and at 10 another bus from Mehkar heading east all the way to Wardha, in fact all the way to Nagpur.
The trip to Wardha, though only about 170 miles, was a long one, seven hours on two lane country roads, passing lots of agricultural land and through several towns. There wasn't much traffic and fortunately the bus never was too full. The terrain was mostly flat, with some hills and rolling countryside. All was very dry. There was a lot of black, rich looking soil at the beginning, though the soil became browner the further east we came. There were lots of plowed fields, ready for planting, and lots of browns and yellows, but with plenty of green leafed trees. We did come through one forest of almost leafless trees, teak perhaps. Soon after noon the cool wind of the morning coming in the bus windows had turned into an unpleasant blast of hot air coming in the windows. It was hot in that bus in the afternoon. Through the day we descended from about 2000 feet elevation to about 1000 in Wardha, which we reached about 5. I got a room in a hotel right next to the bus station and the room was delightfully cool, though I'm not sure why. I sat in my room, drank lots of water, and recovered from the bus trip before dinner.
When I got up the next morning my thermometer registered 82 in my room, wonderfully cool. I had come to Wardha to visit the Sevagram Ashram, where Gandhi lived from 1936 to 1942. It's only about five miles outside of the city, but it took me over an hour to find the right bus. By the time I got there, after the short bus trip and about a half mile walk from the bus stop, it was about 11 and hot. I looked around the simple mud walled, stick roofed huts of the ashram. Gandhi's hut had a bathroom with a porcelain toilet bowl set above a septic tank. Another hut, the first used by Gandhi and the ashramites, when they were all living in the same hut, had a bathroom with a porcelain bathtub. The Indian man behind me said, "Gandhi had a bathtub?" Judging from the sign in book at the entrance, I think I may have been the only westerner to visit in a while. There were only a few tourists there. Gandhi move there because he wanted to be in a small village, and Wardha is a railroad junction almost right in the middle of India.
A photo gallery was across the road and next to that a simple restaurant where I had a thali lunch, with what Indians call "buttermilk" to drink. I think it is whey, as in "curds and whey." One guy told me it is what is left over when curd (what Indians call yogurt) is produced from milk.
I took a shared autorickshaw back to my hotel. It was the birthday of the untouchable (untouchables are now called dalits) leader B. R. Ambedkar, who was born in 1891 and died in 1956. There were posters of him all over town. Near the end of his life, fed up with Hinduism's treatment of untouchables, he converted to Buddhism, and I have read there are something like 500,000 Ambedkar Buddhists, mostly around Nagpur. Many of the posters had Ambedkar in suit and tie with horn-rimmed glasses on one side and Buddha on the other.
I got back to my hotel room about 2 and rested in that nice cool room until about 3:30, when I caught an express bus heading northeast to Nagpur, 45 miles and two hours away. We reached a four lane divided highway about 15 miles south of the city. Nagpur has over two million people and was the capital of the Central Provinces during British rule. It is now in the northeast corner of Maharashtra. I got a room in a hotel with a cooler, a device that has a fan blowing over straw saturated with water and produces a cool wind. I remember a friend of mine used to have something similar in his house as a kid in the '60's. It worked very well and kept the room cool. In the lobby is a photo of the hotel when it opened in 1980, with only two or three cars parked in the street in front of it. There is hardly any traffic on the street, one scooter and several bicycles, quite different from the congested, noisy street in front of the hotel today. At dinner I read a newspaper, reporting that the temperature had reached 105 the day before, down from 108 two days before that.
My thermometer registered 77 the next morning and in fact I had used my blanket during the night for the first time since I was in Mahabaleshwar in the Western Ghats. That cooler worked very well. About 9 I caught a bus heading northeast to Ramtek, only about 25 miles away, but a very hot and crowded hour and a half bus trip. In Ramtek I took an autorickshaw up to the top of the hill rising about 400 or 500 feet above town with a fort and temples on top. Rama, his wife Sita, and his brother Lakshman are supposed to have stopped here on their way back to Ayodhya from Lanka. On the way up we passed a lake between hills are bordered with small temples.
The 18th century fort looks much restored and the temples, originally 5th century, look restored, too. Not many pilgrims were there. I think they were outnumbered by the langur monkeys, the tamest ones I've come across. They were a lot of fun to watch. The temples weren't much, but the views of the town and countryside were great. I stayed up on one high spot for quite a while, being visited occasionally by pilgrims and monkeys. Langurs are incredible leapers and I watch them jump from one part of the temple to another.
I walked down the 700 steps from the hilltop to the town, in the midday heat through a grove of leafless trees, but with good views up of the fort and temples. Some of the trees were in flower, with tiny, white flowers with lots of bees prowling around them. My thermometer registered 108. I caught a 1 o'clock bus back to Nagpur and was glad to reach my cool hotel room after another crowded bus trip.
The bus trip took about two hours, passing mostly through flat areas, but with hills just north of Aurangabad and just south of Fardapur. Just before Fardapur we came down a ravine, passing the turn off for the Ajanta Caves, and reached Fardapur on the plains, only about five miles from the caves. Fardapur is a small town, but with several hotels. I checked into a nice room and walked along the highway through town just at sunset, with dinner at the hotel afterward. I think I was the only guest at the hotel.
The next morning I watched the sun rise over a small hill from my one of my windows and made it to the Ajanta Caves about 9, when they opened to the public. These Buddhist caves, dating from the 2nd century BC to the 6th century AD, are located in the 250 foot high cliffs of a ravine formed by a horseshoe bend of the Waghora River. It is a very scenic site, though very dry this time of year without a drop of water in the riverbed. The pictures of it in the wet season, with everything green and waterfalls falling off the cliffs, are spectacular. The caves were cut into the cliffs to provide wet season accommodation for wandering Buddhist monks, about 200 of them, but were abandoned about the time the caves at Ellora were started. They were forgotten for over a thousand years before being rediscovered by a group of British officers hunting tigers in 1819. Thus, they managed to avoid damage by Muslims.
There are thirty caves (though about a third of them are closed) strung along the horseshoe bend, with the earliest (from the 2nd century BC) in the center. These have stupas representing Buddha. The later caves, from the 5th and 6th centuries AD, are on both ends. The most extraordinary thing about these caves is that they are filled with paintings, temperas painted on plaster applied to the rock cut walls. There is, of course, considerable concern about the deterioration of the paintings with so many people entering the caves to see them (though there were considerably fewer people at Ajanta than at Ellora). Many of the caves have low intensity lights, dehumidifiers and barriers before the paintings. Unfortunately, the barriers inside the caves, especially at the best paintings, keep you as much as thirty feet away from the paintings, which means you really can't make out the intricate details, and often can't see much at all. That was a real disappointment.
Cave 1 has a spectacular large painting of the bodhisattva Padmapani, and you can see that very well, but, as I said, the smaller details are almost impossible to pick out. The walls of that cave and the next one are covered with paintings, but the thirty foot barriers made viewing them very frustrating. As I went from cave to cave, there were some without barriers where you could get close to fragments of paintings and those were very interesting. There is also excellent sculpture, similar to that at Ellora. I spent more than six hours walking from cave to cave. In Cave 16 is the famous painting of the "Dying Princess," actually the wife of Buddha's brother, who is not dying but fainting on being told that her husband is leaving her to become a monk. It is very hard to see in the dark. Another cave is unfinished, but it is very interesting to see how they were cutting into the rock. It was very hot in the sun outside the caves, but, as at Ellora, cool inside. Fortunately, the caves are closer together than at Ellora. The last cave you can visit, Cave 26, has a large sculpted reclining Buddha, actually Buddha on his deathbed, and several other beautiful sculptures.
About 3:30 I climbed up steps from the riverbed to a look out point opposite the caves about 200 feet above the riverbead, and from there made a further climb, rising about 300 feet in elevation, to the point where the caves were first seen by the tiger hunters in 1819. (Their leader was named John Smith and you can see his name carved onto a painted pillar in the Cave 10, the one he first spotted and the oldest cave at Ajanta.) That was a hot climb (my thermometer read 106), but the view was worth it. When I reached the top I drank the very warm last remaining gulps from my bottle of water. Hot water never tasted so good. I walked down to the dry riverbed, and then along it, reaching the entrance about 5:30, when the caves close. I drank two liters of cold water upon arrival there.
Back at the hotel that evening, I watched cricket on television. India's professional cricket league season has just started. The league games have different rules and take only something like four hours to play, rather than the five days needed for "test" cricket, the original game. I watched the Bangalore Royal Challengers versus the Kolkata Knight Riders. There were cheer leaders, all of them western women.
I left Fardapur shortly after 9 the next morning, taking a bus heading back towards Aurangabad, passing the turn off to the caves and heading up the ravine into the hills. I took it only as far as the town of Ajanta, about seven miles from Fardapur and on the higher flatlands reached by the ravine. From there I caught a bus headed east to Buldana through an area with very rich looking black soil. Much of it was ploughed, waiting for planting with the coming of the monsoon, I guess. There were remnants of crops of wheat and cotton. From Buldana I caught another bus headed southeast to Mehkar, and from Mekhar a final bus south to Lonar, arriving about 2. I took an autorickshaw to a hotel on the outskirts of town on the edge of the Lonar Crater, formed 50,000 years ago when a meteorite hit. The crater is more than a mile in diameter and about 450 feet deep. It is said to be the world's third largest, after one in Arizona and one in Ghana.
I checked into the hotel, had lunch there, and about 3 started down the trail right across the road from the hotel into the crater. A green, alkaline lake fills much of the crater, bordered by a green forest. The sloping walls of the crater are mostly grassy and yellow at this time of year, with some trees. It didn't take long to walk down, less than twenty minutes, and I descended only a little more than 300 feet by my altimeter. I passed an old, deserted temple just before reaching the floor. It was relatively cool in the shade of the trees on the crater floor, and I began a walk around the lake, going clockwise.
There was a good trail at first, passing several old, deserted temples, one filled with bats and another with langur monkeys. There were lots of birds, too, in the trees and on the lake. Further on, I came across a huge band of langurs, maybe thirty or forty of them. They are incredible leapers and fun to watch. A little further on, I came to an active temple on the edge of the lake, with a few pilgrims and even more monkeys. The trail got rougher after that and I reached a nice spot, a deserted temple just across the lake from where I had come down the crater wall. The trail continued, but with quite a few briers, scratching my legs. I saw some peafowl, mostly peahens, I think. They flew off before I could get too close. They are very ungainly fliers.
Coming almost full circle around the lake, I lost the trail in an agricultural area, mostly bananas, but finally made my way to just below the path I had come down, about three hours after starting. It had clouded up a bit. I have seen so very few clouds during this very dry five months of traveling in India. The sun set and I watched a group of peafowl gathered in a clearing. One beautiful male was with several hens. The hens, once they realized I was nearby, fluttered off into the trees, but the peacock lingered a little longer. A little stream is nearby, and langurs were gathered there to drink. I climbed up out of the crater and got back to the hotel just as it got dark, about 7. I had dinner out on the terrace of the almost empty hotel restaurant, overlooking the crater and facing a very nice evening breeze.
I got up about 6:30 the next morning and sat on the terrace just outside my room, where it was much cooler than in my room. There were birds and squirrels in the nearby trees and it was very pleasant out there. I decided to spend another day in Lonar rather than face more hot bus travel across the Deccan. After breakfast overlooking the crater, I walked down into the crater about 9 and walked along the path under the trees to the active temple on the lake's southern shore, passing lots of langurs and birds. (The hotel is just east of the crater.) I turned around and came back and was back at the hotel about noon. It was a little cloudy by then, but still a hot climb up. I had lunch and spent the hot part of the afternoon at the hotel. I tried to take a nap but it was too hot in my room. It was nicer on the restaurant terrace facing the breeze.
I walked down again about 5, again heading to the active temple on the southern side of the lake and seeing lots of langurs. I came back to the lake's eastern shore and watched the sun, reflected in the lake, set over the crater walls. I spotted two peacocks (India's national bird) in the clearing before I climbed up the crater walls just before dark and again enjoyed the cool breeze from the west during dinner.
The electricity failed the next morning at 6 and I was awakened as my fan stopped revolving. I got up soon after and sat out in the cool air of my terrace. Thirty people from Bombay were scheduled to arrive at the hotel that day (I had been about the only guest), but I left before they arrived. After breakfast at the hotel, I caught a bus north back to Mehkar about 9, and at 10 another bus from Mehkar heading east all the way to Wardha, in fact all the way to Nagpur.
The trip to Wardha, though only about 170 miles, was a long one, seven hours on two lane country roads, passing lots of agricultural land and through several towns. There wasn't much traffic and fortunately the bus never was too full. The terrain was mostly flat, with some hills and rolling countryside. All was very dry. There was a lot of black, rich looking soil at the beginning, though the soil became browner the further east we came. There were lots of plowed fields, ready for planting, and lots of browns and yellows, but with plenty of green leafed trees. We did come through one forest of almost leafless trees, teak perhaps. Soon after noon the cool wind of the morning coming in the bus windows had turned into an unpleasant blast of hot air coming in the windows. It was hot in that bus in the afternoon. Through the day we descended from about 2000 feet elevation to about 1000 in Wardha, which we reached about 5. I got a room in a hotel right next to the bus station and the room was delightfully cool, though I'm not sure why. I sat in my room, drank lots of water, and recovered from the bus trip before dinner.
When I got up the next morning my thermometer registered 82 in my room, wonderfully cool. I had come to Wardha to visit the Sevagram Ashram, where Gandhi lived from 1936 to 1942. It's only about five miles outside of the city, but it took me over an hour to find the right bus. By the time I got there, after the short bus trip and about a half mile walk from the bus stop, it was about 11 and hot. I looked around the simple mud walled, stick roofed huts of the ashram. Gandhi's hut had a bathroom with a porcelain toilet bowl set above a septic tank. Another hut, the first used by Gandhi and the ashramites, when they were all living in the same hut, had a bathroom with a porcelain bathtub. The Indian man behind me said, "Gandhi had a bathtub?" Judging from the sign in book at the entrance, I think I may have been the only westerner to visit in a while. There were only a few tourists there. Gandhi move there because he wanted to be in a small village, and Wardha is a railroad junction almost right in the middle of India.
A photo gallery was across the road and next to that a simple restaurant where I had a thali lunch, with what Indians call "buttermilk" to drink. I think it is whey, as in "curds and whey." One guy told me it is what is left over when curd (what Indians call yogurt) is produced from milk.
I took a shared autorickshaw back to my hotel. It was the birthday of the untouchable (untouchables are now called dalits) leader B. R. Ambedkar, who was born in 1891 and died in 1956. There were posters of him all over town. Near the end of his life, fed up with Hinduism's treatment of untouchables, he converted to Buddhism, and I have read there are something like 500,000 Ambedkar Buddhists, mostly around Nagpur. Many of the posters had Ambedkar in suit and tie with horn-rimmed glasses on one side and Buddha on the other.
I got back to my hotel room about 2 and rested in that nice cool room until about 3:30, when I caught an express bus heading northeast to Nagpur, 45 miles and two hours away. We reached a four lane divided highway about 15 miles south of the city. Nagpur has over two million people and was the capital of the Central Provinces during British rule. It is now in the northeast corner of Maharashtra. I got a room in a hotel with a cooler, a device that has a fan blowing over straw saturated with water and produces a cool wind. I remember a friend of mine used to have something similar in his house as a kid in the '60's. It worked very well and kept the room cool. In the lobby is a photo of the hotel when it opened in 1980, with only two or three cars parked in the street in front of it. There is hardly any traffic on the street, one scooter and several bicycles, quite different from the congested, noisy street in front of the hotel today. At dinner I read a newspaper, reporting that the temperature had reached 105 the day before, down from 108 two days before that.
My thermometer registered 77 the next morning and in fact I had used my blanket during the night for the first time since I was in Mahabaleshwar in the Western Ghats. That cooler worked very well. About 9 I caught a bus heading northeast to Ramtek, only about 25 miles away, but a very hot and crowded hour and a half bus trip. In Ramtek I took an autorickshaw up to the top of the hill rising about 400 or 500 feet above town with a fort and temples on top. Rama, his wife Sita, and his brother Lakshman are supposed to have stopped here on their way back to Ayodhya from Lanka. On the way up we passed a lake between hills are bordered with small temples.
The 18th century fort looks much restored and the temples, originally 5th century, look restored, too. Not many pilgrims were there. I think they were outnumbered by the langur monkeys, the tamest ones I've come across. They were a lot of fun to watch. The temples weren't much, but the views of the town and countryside were great. I stayed up on one high spot for quite a while, being visited occasionally by pilgrims and monkeys. Langurs are incredible leapers and I watch them jump from one part of the temple to another.
I walked down the 700 steps from the hilltop to the town, in the midday heat through a grove of leafless trees, but with good views up of the fort and temples. Some of the trees were in flower, with tiny, white flowers with lots of bees prowling around them. My thermometer registered 108. I caught a 1 o'clock bus back to Nagpur and was glad to reach my cool hotel room after another crowded bus trip.
No comments:
Post a Comment