On the sunny, hot morning of the 25th I took a city bus to Colombo's main train station and bought a ticket for the 10:30 train south along the coast to Aluthgama. The train arrived at 11 and was packed. All seats were filled and the aisles were jammed with people. After walking along the platform the length of the train, I decided I would take the bus instead. I walked to the nearby bus station and left on an uncrowded bus at 11:30. The 35 mile trip to Aluthgama took over two hours. Traffic in Colombo was congested and slow, and the bus passed near my hotel about two hours after I had set out for the train station. I could have walked a block and a half from my hotel and caught the bus there. It must have taken more than an hour to get through Colombo and its suburbs. I had a few glimpses of the ocean as we headed south.
In Aluthgama I got a room in a private house on the pretty lagoon created by a river, the Bentota Ganga, just before it empties into the ocean. About 5, after lunch and an internet cafe stop on a hot day, I walked across the bridge over the river, with a welcome breeze off the lagoon to the west, south to the town of Bentota just on the other side. This is Sri Lanka's premier beach resort area. Just over the bridge are two Geoffrey Bawa designed hotels. I walked past the Bentota Beach Hotel to the Avani Bentota Hotel and walked onto its palm filled, grassy grounds. The hotel building itself is a low rise, two story, long building whose dominant feature is a high sloping red tile roof, which fits very well into the landscape. Black clouds hovered inland over the palm trees to the east.
I walked through the grounds to the beach, considered a golden sand beach, though the sand looks more beige to me, with some orange or brown or red, depending on the sunlight. The beach is wide and long and very nice. Waves crashed offshore. I walked north along the not very crowded beach until after sunset, a magnificent sunset in a sky full of enormous clouds. Black clouds still hovered to the east inland, but only a few raindrops fell.
Walking back along the beach just before dark, I entered the grounds of the Bentota Beach Hotel. The main building is designed to resemble a four story wooden pagoda. On the second story is a large room that is a bar with big windows facing west. The room is air conditioned, quite a change from the very humid air outside, and smells wonderfully of cloves. I sat there for a while and then walked through an inner courtyard with a pool (not for swimming) surrounded by frangipangi trees to the reception area, with a ceiling covered with spectacular panels of colorful batik designs of animals, insects, and flowers. The reception area, too, was air conditioned and redolent of cloves. I walked over the bridge and back to Aluthgama in the dark, with a few stars out.
The next morning about 8 I started off on a walk across the bridge, through the clove scented Bentota Beach Hotel, and south along the beach to a headland, topped by a big, unattractive hotel. The morning was sunny and warm. After about an hour of walking, I retraced my steps and on arrival back in Aluthgama had a big breakfast on the grass terrace of a hotel fronting the lagoon, with a bit of a breeze off the water.
Towards noon I took a slow bus south about 15 miles, with few ocean views, to the town of Ambalangoda, where there are two shops that sell Sri Lankan masks. One has a sort of museum attached to it, which was interesting but terribly hot, humid, and stuffy. I was dripping with sweat while inside. The museum displayed the 35 masks used in traditional Sri Lanka devil dances, rarely performed now but in times past used to rid people of diseases caused by devils. Each devil was responsible for a particular disease and had to be propitiated with dancing and offerings to persuade it to leave the ill person in peace. Another set of masks were used in a theatrical piece about a pregnant queen and her husband the king. The masks were very interesting. In a nearby area one guy was carving a mask and a woman was painting another one. In the shop hundreds of masks were on sale.
I caught a faster bus back to Aluthgama, arriving about 2:30, and headed to the clove scented, air conditioned bar of the Bentota Beach Hotel, where I happily spent most of the rest of the afternoon reading while sitting on a comfortable sofa. Outside the air was hot and soupy. I did spend some time in the reception area looking over the spectacular batik panels on the ceiling. About 5:30 walked down to the beach and stayed until after sunset. There was no rain until later that night.
The next morning was cloudy, with some sun and some rain. I ate another big breakfast facing the lagoon and then before 10 left on a bus heading south to Galle, something more than 30 miles away. The bus ride, with some ocean views, took about an hour and a half. When the bus stopped, it was oppressively hot inside. We passed through the beach town of Hikkaduwa, famous in the 70's, but now it looks terribly overdeveloped. Rain fell just before we reached Galle, but stopped just before arrival.
Galle was Sri Lanka's premier port until the port at Colombo was improved in the late 19th century. Some have linked it with the Biblical Tarshish, from where King Solomon obtained gold, spices, ivory, apes, and peacocks, though I've read others have located Tarshish in Spain. In any event, near the southern tip of Sri Lanka, it has a long trading history. The Portuguese first appeared here in 1505 and built a fort in 1589. The Dutch captured the fort in 1640 and in the 1660's expanded the fort to include the whole of Galle's sea facing peninsula. The peninsula is less than a half mile from north to south, and even shorter from east to west. The three high bastions facing north, the land side, are particularly impressive Built in the 1720's by a particularly tyrannical Dutch governor, who was later executed in Batavia (now Jakarta in Indonesia), they are named, from west to east, the Star, Moon, and Sun Bastions. There was only one small entrance into the fort just east of the Sun Bastion until the British in 1873 cut a larger entrance between the Moon and Sun Bastions.
All Galle is divided into two parts: the wonderful old colonial town inside the fort and the modern town to the north. From the bus station I walked through the 1873 entrance through the walls and down a narrow, almost traffic free little street to a hotel in the large family house of Mrs. Wijenayaka about a block from the southern wall of the fort. The day was cloudy, hot, and humid, and it was high noon, but I took a walk around the old town. Lots of tourists were out and about and I enjoyed walking through the narrow streets lined with colonial buildings. I suppose Galle's eclipse as a port by Colombo may have saved its colonial character. In recent years lots of foreigners have bought and refurbished many of the old colonial buildings and the whole area inside the fort has a wonderful colonial feel, more than any place I've ever been in Asia. The overwhelming majority of the people inside the fort, though, are Sri Lankan, and there are schools and shops. It's not a large area, something like 90 acres in total.
Walking around town, I entered the 19th century Anglican church and, just up the street, the mid 18th century Dutch Reformed church, with its floor covered with finely carved old stone tablets with death heads and family crests and names and birth and death details in Dutch. These memorials were moved to the church when the British closed the old cemeteries in town in the mid 19th century. The church interior isn't decorated much, but for the organ loft, a wooden canopy over the pulpit, and some wall plaques, the most unusual of which held the small baptismal dress of the man it memorialized
The sky had darkened before I entered the church and it rained briefly while I was inside, which cooled the air a bit. I also visited a couple of now very fancy hotels in old buildings, one set in a former gem merchant's mansion and the other originally built for the Dutch Governor in 1684 and converted in 1863 into the New Oriental Hotel, Galle's most fashionable colonial hotel. Both had wonderful verandas and high ceilinged rooms inside, beautifully decorated. The latter had some wonderful old maps on its walls. In the former rooms go for about $200 a night; in the latter $600. My room at Mrs. Wijenayaka's cost me about $15 a night. Budget hotels are more expensive in Sri Lanka than India, as are expenses generally.
I walked to Court Square, filled with big, leafy rain trees, some now entangled with banyan trees, and surrounded by several lovely old court buildings and very small lawyers offices. It was quiet on a Sunday afternoon save for guys playing cricket in the paved square. I watched for a while. Sri Lankans seem to be particularly good cricket players and the country is one of the world's cricket powers, despite having only 21 million people compared to, say, India's 1.3 billion. I also walked by the huge former Great Warehouse, now converted into an almost worthless maritime museum. It is a long (maybe 250 feet long) barn-like, two story structure through which the old gateway into the fort passes. It is painted yellow with black shutters and formerly held ships provisions and valuable trade commodities. Its eastern end is near Court Square and its western end near an old building with a veranda and columns that holds the post office. The whole area within the fort is just a wonderful place to wander around, with little traffic. It was especially quiet on a Sunday afternoon.
I had lunch about 2 and then walked around some more. Near the southeast corner of the walls is a mosque built about 1900 that looks like a church but for the Islamic symbols, such as a half moon, where the cross might be above the doorway. The sun came out every once in a while, but there were still lots of clouds in the sky. About 5 I began a walk along the fort walls, starting at the lighthouse at the southeast corner, with views across the harbor to a rocky peninsula to the east. The bastion at this point is called Point Utrecht, and from there I walked west along the top of the walls to the next bastion, built upon Flag Rock, the southernmost point of the fort. Big rocks litter the ocean below, with waves crashing among them. In places I could see coral through the clear water. A man was fishing with a net among the rocks and waves. From Flag Rock I walked northwest and then north, passing several other bastions and lots of people out for a late Sunday afternoon stroll, until I reached the massive bastions protecting the fort from the land to the north. I climbed Star Bastion on the west and then walked across to the central Moon Bastion, which now has a 19th century British built clocktower and a big Sri Lankan flag flying from a high pole. From the bastion there were good views of the town inside the fort, with the Anglican and Dutch Reformed churches particularly prominent.
The sunset, however, was rather drab, as massive clouds hung over the ocean to the west. I sat on the Moon Bastion for a while and then walked back the way I had come, reaching Flag Rock just before dark. It rained during dinner and after dinner I again climbed up to Flag Rock where I could see the clouds occasionally lit up by distant lightning out over the ocean.
The next morning was sunny, quite a change from the day before. About 7:30 I walked to Flag Rock and then headed along the top of the walls northwest and then north to the massive bastions on the fort's north side. There was a bit of breeze off the ocean, but I was sweating before 8. I walked along the tops of the northern bastions, hot under the sun, and then descended and left the fort via the 1873 gate, passing an open air fish market next to the harbor, and returning to the fort via the smaller original gate. Lots of traffic on this Monday morning was passing into the fort via this gate. Court Square, a block from the gate, was filled with people and with cars parked in the square, which had been empty the day before. Among the crowds were lawyers in black suits and ties. It made me hot and uncomfortable just to look at them in their suits. The courts seemed already busy. The array of small lawyer offices, filled with typewriters, stacks of papers, and ceiling fans, had clients in them.
From Court Square I walked up and down the fort's streets, with few tourists this early in the morning. About 9 I returned to my hotel where I had a great, and very big, breakfast, in the family dining room while one of Mrs. Wijenayaka's relatives or helpers prepared a wedding cake mixture with dried fruit inside the batter. Breakfast included woodapple jam, whatever that is. It was good.
After breakfast I walked around town some more, visiting some of the shops full of antiquities and a private museum full of old stuff that is adjacent to a gem shop, full of a fantastic array of gems and jewelry. I came back to the hotel after noon and spent the hottest part of the afternoon there, using the internet and talking with the other guests.
About 5:30 I headed to Flag Rock..Big black clouds filled the eastern sky behind the lighthouse and big white mosque. The fisherman with a net was again out among the rocks and waves. Further out I could see big cargo ships, some heading east and some west. There were clouds to the west, too, but the sun descended through a gap in the clouds until it disappeared just above the horizon. The sunset was much more colorful than the cloudy day before and I stayed up on Flag Rock until after dark, when raindrops finally persuaded me to leave. After dinner I came back. The cloud filled sky to the west was frequently illuminated by flashes of far off lightning. Only once did I see a bolt of lightning, reaching from the bottom of a low hanging cloud to the ocean. The thunder seemed to arrive about fifteen seconds after the lightning, and then was faint, because of distance and the crash of the waves below the walls.
I had planned to leave Galle the next morning, but decided to stay on an additional day in that very nice place. The early morning was cloudy as I walked to Flag Rock about 7:30. I watched the ocean from there a while and then walked around town until about 9. I think I eventually covered every street inside the fort and there were often interesting places here and there. The people are very friendly, too. The sun came out as I was walking around.
After another big breakfast at my hotel, I spent most of the day, there, using the internet, reading, and talking with the interesting and friendly Mrs. Wijenayaka, now a great grandmother, and the other guests. I also read the newspaper, a pro-government paper with a paranoid, nationalistic outlook that sees the West (and they are especially upset about Canada) as trying to destabilize Sri Lanka out of jealousy at its success. All this is because of the government's continued hard line stance toward the minority Tamils after the horrendous civil war that lasted from 1983 until 2009. Buddhist Sinhalese make up about 73% of the country's population, while the Hindu Tamils comprise 17%. The rest include Muslims and Christians. Sri Lanka's thuggish President Rajapaksa is a strident Sinhalese nationalist who is obviously very upset with the calls for war crime investigations arising out of the civil war.
About 4:30 I headed out to Flag Bastion and walked back and forth from there to Triton Bastion to the west, sitting every once in a while. The sky had clouded up and there was a good breeze off the ocean, so it was pleasant up on the walls. I could see big cargo ships out near the horizon and fishermen among the rocks below. Big black clouds were stacked up to the northwest and over the rest of the afternoon moved to obscure the sunset. Still, the billowing dark clouds made for a dramatic scene over the ocean. I walked along the walls to the big north bastions and then walked through the town just before dark. After dinner I went up to Flag Rock again. There was no lightning to be seen, but the night air was filled with the crash of the waves below.
In Aluthgama I got a room in a private house on the pretty lagoon created by a river, the Bentota Ganga, just before it empties into the ocean. About 5, after lunch and an internet cafe stop on a hot day, I walked across the bridge over the river, with a welcome breeze off the lagoon to the west, south to the town of Bentota just on the other side. This is Sri Lanka's premier beach resort area. Just over the bridge are two Geoffrey Bawa designed hotels. I walked past the Bentota Beach Hotel to the Avani Bentota Hotel and walked onto its palm filled, grassy grounds. The hotel building itself is a low rise, two story, long building whose dominant feature is a high sloping red tile roof, which fits very well into the landscape. Black clouds hovered inland over the palm trees to the east.
I walked through the grounds to the beach, considered a golden sand beach, though the sand looks more beige to me, with some orange or brown or red, depending on the sunlight. The beach is wide and long and very nice. Waves crashed offshore. I walked north along the not very crowded beach until after sunset, a magnificent sunset in a sky full of enormous clouds. Black clouds still hovered to the east inland, but only a few raindrops fell.
Walking back along the beach just before dark, I entered the grounds of the Bentota Beach Hotel. The main building is designed to resemble a four story wooden pagoda. On the second story is a large room that is a bar with big windows facing west. The room is air conditioned, quite a change from the very humid air outside, and smells wonderfully of cloves. I sat there for a while and then walked through an inner courtyard with a pool (not for swimming) surrounded by frangipangi trees to the reception area, with a ceiling covered with spectacular panels of colorful batik designs of animals, insects, and flowers. The reception area, too, was air conditioned and redolent of cloves. I walked over the bridge and back to Aluthgama in the dark, with a few stars out.
The next morning about 8 I started off on a walk across the bridge, through the clove scented Bentota Beach Hotel, and south along the beach to a headland, topped by a big, unattractive hotel. The morning was sunny and warm. After about an hour of walking, I retraced my steps and on arrival back in Aluthgama had a big breakfast on the grass terrace of a hotel fronting the lagoon, with a bit of a breeze off the water.
Towards noon I took a slow bus south about 15 miles, with few ocean views, to the town of Ambalangoda, where there are two shops that sell Sri Lankan masks. One has a sort of museum attached to it, which was interesting but terribly hot, humid, and stuffy. I was dripping with sweat while inside. The museum displayed the 35 masks used in traditional Sri Lanka devil dances, rarely performed now but in times past used to rid people of diseases caused by devils. Each devil was responsible for a particular disease and had to be propitiated with dancing and offerings to persuade it to leave the ill person in peace. Another set of masks were used in a theatrical piece about a pregnant queen and her husband the king. The masks were very interesting. In a nearby area one guy was carving a mask and a woman was painting another one. In the shop hundreds of masks were on sale.
I caught a faster bus back to Aluthgama, arriving about 2:30, and headed to the clove scented, air conditioned bar of the Bentota Beach Hotel, where I happily spent most of the rest of the afternoon reading while sitting on a comfortable sofa. Outside the air was hot and soupy. I did spend some time in the reception area looking over the spectacular batik panels on the ceiling. About 5:30 walked down to the beach and stayed until after sunset. There was no rain until later that night.
The next morning was cloudy, with some sun and some rain. I ate another big breakfast facing the lagoon and then before 10 left on a bus heading south to Galle, something more than 30 miles away. The bus ride, with some ocean views, took about an hour and a half. When the bus stopped, it was oppressively hot inside. We passed through the beach town of Hikkaduwa, famous in the 70's, but now it looks terribly overdeveloped. Rain fell just before we reached Galle, but stopped just before arrival.
Galle was Sri Lanka's premier port until the port at Colombo was improved in the late 19th century. Some have linked it with the Biblical Tarshish, from where King Solomon obtained gold, spices, ivory, apes, and peacocks, though I've read others have located Tarshish in Spain. In any event, near the southern tip of Sri Lanka, it has a long trading history. The Portuguese first appeared here in 1505 and built a fort in 1589. The Dutch captured the fort in 1640 and in the 1660's expanded the fort to include the whole of Galle's sea facing peninsula. The peninsula is less than a half mile from north to south, and even shorter from east to west. The three high bastions facing north, the land side, are particularly impressive Built in the 1720's by a particularly tyrannical Dutch governor, who was later executed in Batavia (now Jakarta in Indonesia), they are named, from west to east, the Star, Moon, and Sun Bastions. There was only one small entrance into the fort just east of the Sun Bastion until the British in 1873 cut a larger entrance between the Moon and Sun Bastions.
All Galle is divided into two parts: the wonderful old colonial town inside the fort and the modern town to the north. From the bus station I walked through the 1873 entrance through the walls and down a narrow, almost traffic free little street to a hotel in the large family house of Mrs. Wijenayaka about a block from the southern wall of the fort. The day was cloudy, hot, and humid, and it was high noon, but I took a walk around the old town. Lots of tourists were out and about and I enjoyed walking through the narrow streets lined with colonial buildings. I suppose Galle's eclipse as a port by Colombo may have saved its colonial character. In recent years lots of foreigners have bought and refurbished many of the old colonial buildings and the whole area inside the fort has a wonderful colonial feel, more than any place I've ever been in Asia. The overwhelming majority of the people inside the fort, though, are Sri Lankan, and there are schools and shops. It's not a large area, something like 90 acres in total.
Walking around town, I entered the 19th century Anglican church and, just up the street, the mid 18th century Dutch Reformed church, with its floor covered with finely carved old stone tablets with death heads and family crests and names and birth and death details in Dutch. These memorials were moved to the church when the British closed the old cemeteries in town in the mid 19th century. The church interior isn't decorated much, but for the organ loft, a wooden canopy over the pulpit, and some wall plaques, the most unusual of which held the small baptismal dress of the man it memorialized
The sky had darkened before I entered the church and it rained briefly while I was inside, which cooled the air a bit. I also visited a couple of now very fancy hotels in old buildings, one set in a former gem merchant's mansion and the other originally built for the Dutch Governor in 1684 and converted in 1863 into the New Oriental Hotel, Galle's most fashionable colonial hotel. Both had wonderful verandas and high ceilinged rooms inside, beautifully decorated. The latter had some wonderful old maps on its walls. In the former rooms go for about $200 a night; in the latter $600. My room at Mrs. Wijenayaka's cost me about $15 a night. Budget hotels are more expensive in Sri Lanka than India, as are expenses generally.
I walked to Court Square, filled with big, leafy rain trees, some now entangled with banyan trees, and surrounded by several lovely old court buildings and very small lawyers offices. It was quiet on a Sunday afternoon save for guys playing cricket in the paved square. I watched for a while. Sri Lankans seem to be particularly good cricket players and the country is one of the world's cricket powers, despite having only 21 million people compared to, say, India's 1.3 billion. I also walked by the huge former Great Warehouse, now converted into an almost worthless maritime museum. It is a long (maybe 250 feet long) barn-like, two story structure through which the old gateway into the fort passes. It is painted yellow with black shutters and formerly held ships provisions and valuable trade commodities. Its eastern end is near Court Square and its western end near an old building with a veranda and columns that holds the post office. The whole area within the fort is just a wonderful place to wander around, with little traffic. It was especially quiet on a Sunday afternoon.
I had lunch about 2 and then walked around some more. Near the southeast corner of the walls is a mosque built about 1900 that looks like a church but for the Islamic symbols, such as a half moon, where the cross might be above the doorway. The sun came out every once in a while, but there were still lots of clouds in the sky. About 5 I began a walk along the fort walls, starting at the lighthouse at the southeast corner, with views across the harbor to a rocky peninsula to the east. The bastion at this point is called Point Utrecht, and from there I walked west along the top of the walls to the next bastion, built upon Flag Rock, the southernmost point of the fort. Big rocks litter the ocean below, with waves crashing among them. In places I could see coral through the clear water. A man was fishing with a net among the rocks and waves. From Flag Rock I walked northwest and then north, passing several other bastions and lots of people out for a late Sunday afternoon stroll, until I reached the massive bastions protecting the fort from the land to the north. I climbed Star Bastion on the west and then walked across to the central Moon Bastion, which now has a 19th century British built clocktower and a big Sri Lankan flag flying from a high pole. From the bastion there were good views of the town inside the fort, with the Anglican and Dutch Reformed churches particularly prominent.
The sunset, however, was rather drab, as massive clouds hung over the ocean to the west. I sat on the Moon Bastion for a while and then walked back the way I had come, reaching Flag Rock just before dark. It rained during dinner and after dinner I again climbed up to Flag Rock where I could see the clouds occasionally lit up by distant lightning out over the ocean.
The next morning was sunny, quite a change from the day before. About 7:30 I walked to Flag Rock and then headed along the top of the walls northwest and then north to the massive bastions on the fort's north side. There was a bit of breeze off the ocean, but I was sweating before 8. I walked along the tops of the northern bastions, hot under the sun, and then descended and left the fort via the 1873 gate, passing an open air fish market next to the harbor, and returning to the fort via the smaller original gate. Lots of traffic on this Monday morning was passing into the fort via this gate. Court Square, a block from the gate, was filled with people and with cars parked in the square, which had been empty the day before. Among the crowds were lawyers in black suits and ties. It made me hot and uncomfortable just to look at them in their suits. The courts seemed already busy. The array of small lawyer offices, filled with typewriters, stacks of papers, and ceiling fans, had clients in them.
From Court Square I walked up and down the fort's streets, with few tourists this early in the morning. About 9 I returned to my hotel where I had a great, and very big, breakfast, in the family dining room while one of Mrs. Wijenayaka's relatives or helpers prepared a wedding cake mixture with dried fruit inside the batter. Breakfast included woodapple jam, whatever that is. It was good.
After breakfast I walked around town some more, visiting some of the shops full of antiquities and a private museum full of old stuff that is adjacent to a gem shop, full of a fantastic array of gems and jewelry. I came back to the hotel after noon and spent the hottest part of the afternoon there, using the internet and talking with the other guests.
About 5:30 I headed to Flag Rock..Big black clouds filled the eastern sky behind the lighthouse and big white mosque. The fisherman with a net was again out among the rocks and waves. Further out I could see big cargo ships, some heading east and some west. There were clouds to the west, too, but the sun descended through a gap in the clouds until it disappeared just above the horizon. The sunset was much more colorful than the cloudy day before and I stayed up on Flag Rock until after dark, when raindrops finally persuaded me to leave. After dinner I came back. The cloud filled sky to the west was frequently illuminated by flashes of far off lightning. Only once did I see a bolt of lightning, reaching from the bottom of a low hanging cloud to the ocean. The thunder seemed to arrive about fifteen seconds after the lightning, and then was faint, because of distance and the crash of the waves below the walls.
I had planned to leave Galle the next morning, but decided to stay on an additional day in that very nice place. The early morning was cloudy as I walked to Flag Rock about 7:30. I watched the ocean from there a while and then walked around town until about 9. I think I eventually covered every street inside the fort and there were often interesting places here and there. The people are very friendly, too. The sun came out as I was walking around.
After another big breakfast at my hotel, I spent most of the day, there, using the internet, reading, and talking with the interesting and friendly Mrs. Wijenayaka, now a great grandmother, and the other guests. I also read the newspaper, a pro-government paper with a paranoid, nationalistic outlook that sees the West (and they are especially upset about Canada) as trying to destabilize Sri Lanka out of jealousy at its success. All this is because of the government's continued hard line stance toward the minority Tamils after the horrendous civil war that lasted from 1983 until 2009. Buddhist Sinhalese make up about 73% of the country's population, while the Hindu Tamils comprise 17%. The rest include Muslims and Christians. Sri Lanka's thuggish President Rajapaksa is a strident Sinhalese nationalist who is obviously very upset with the calls for war crime investigations arising out of the civil war.
About 4:30 I headed out to Flag Bastion and walked back and forth from there to Triton Bastion to the west, sitting every once in a while. The sky had clouded up and there was a good breeze off the ocean, so it was pleasant up on the walls. I could see big cargo ships out near the horizon and fishermen among the rocks below. Big black clouds were stacked up to the northwest and over the rest of the afternoon moved to obscure the sunset. Still, the billowing dark clouds made for a dramatic scene over the ocean. I walked along the walls to the big north bastions and then walked through the town just before dark. After dinner I went up to Flag Rock again. There was no lightning to be seen, but the night air was filled with the crash of the waves below.
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