I was up about 7 on the morning of the 23rd in Cherrapungee and walked up the road to the hilltop cemetery before breakfast. After a pork fat and turmeric flavored rice breakfast I hopped on a very crowded little bus with Nitin and five other tourists from the lodge shortly after 9. We all had to stand in the crowded aisle. We traveled southwest less than ten miles reaching beautiful forest on a narrow road as we descended from about 4300 feet elevation to about 2500. Standing in the aisle, I couldn't see much. The less than ten mile trip took 45 minutes, and when we got off the seven of us walked on another road for half an hour and then into a village where we found concrete steps, supposedly 2000 of them, leading down into the jungle. We walked down the steps at different paces, though generally Nitin and I stayed together.
The jungle was beautiful, though the sky was hazy. You could see far down into the forested valley as you headed down the steep concrete steps. I encountered three western tourists and six Indian tourists coming up. At about 1400 feet elevation Nitin and I came across the first of the incredible root bridges the area is famous for. Over decades, maybe over centuries, the local Khasi people have ingeniously trained roots of fig trees to cross streams to form narrow bridges. The roots from a fig tree from one side are directed to weave together with the roots from a fig tree on the other side. Some roots make up the floor and others the sides of the root bridge. These are some of the most amazing things I have ever seen. They are very sturdy. Sometimes stones or other pieces of wood are placed into gaps in the floor. Nitin and I spent about an hour at this first bridge, walking across it several times and looking at it from both sides and from the stream below. The stream was filled with huge boulders.
We continued down, past white box bee hives near some houses, and reached the end of the concrete stairs and the start of older, stone stairs and a dirt path a little before reaching the big river than has created this jungle valley. These older stone steps were much more attractive than the newer concrete ones, though I suppose the new ones will be easier to maintain. I was later told the concrete stairs were built just in the last 5 to 10 years. We reached the big river, at about 1000 feet elevation and filled with boulders. It is low this time of year before the monsoon. We crossed it by a long suspension bridge made of wire, and it swung as we crossed. On the other side we made a steep climb up more concrete steps to the little village of Nongriat, more than 200 feet above the river, arriving about 1.
Nongriat is a very pretty little village on a jungle-covered hillside with about 200 people living in houses spread out among betel nut trees. Concrete paths and steps now lead around the village. Byron, a Khasi former school teacher, has set up a very small hotel in the village. It was full, but he found us a place to sleep in a wooden house with three other tourists. We all slept on mats on the floor. There were maybe 25 tourists in that little village, many of us staying in village houses. Ours accommodated only us tourists, but other tourists stayed with families.
I sat at Byron's little restaurant, ate lunch, enjoyed the view over the valley, and talked to the other tourists. About 3 I took a walk with several others upriver to another wire suspension bridge over the main river, only maybe 15 minutes away. Just beyond the edge of Nongriat, on the way to the upriver suspension bridge, is a magnificent double decker root bridge over a stream. I guess it is more accurate to say there are two root bridges, one over and very slightly downstream from the lower one. Unfortunately, the area nearby had been heavily concreted to create a pool behind a small weir for washing and bathing, so the double bridges are not in as scenic a spot as formerly. I was told a documentary film company put lots of leaves all over the concrete so its filming of the bridges would be more appealing.
We reached the wire suspension bridge after a beautiful walk through jungle. The Romanian violinist I had met in Shillong was with us, and her German boyfriend filmed her playing her violin in the center of the long, swaying bridge. Then we all crossed the bridge and walked down to the river on the other side. We swam in a pool created by giant boulders a bit away from the fast moving river. The huge jumble of boulders on either side of the river indicated how low the river was from its peak. The water was cold, but I soon got used to it and dried in the sun. That served as my bath for the day.
We all sat around and then walked back to Nongriat for dinner. Byron and his wife cook a big common meal each night, which wasn't great but was filling. The night was beautiful and I didn't go to bed until sometime between 11 and 12. The wood building where I slept had windows with no screens (or glass for that matter), but there were no mosquitoes. Though Nongriat is only at about 1200-1300 feet elevation, according to my altimeter, the night air was cool. I feel asleep hearing cicadas and other sounds of the jungle.
The next morning I was up about 7:30 and had tea, and then porridge with apples, peanuts, cashews and honey at Byron's little restaurant. It became hot in the sun as the morning progressed. About 9:30 I left with Nitin and an English guy named Joe who had been working in Kirghizstan on a walk. We made our way to the church at the southern end of the village (the double bridges are at the northern end; the river valley runs generally north-south, with Nongriat on a hillside on the western side) and from there into the jungle on a path wrapping around the steep hill and heading south far above the river. After about half an hour on that pretty path we came to another little village, with more friendly people, and then continued out of the village down steep concrete steps, dropping about 400 feet. The concrete steps continued down, reaching, I think, a tributary of the main river, but we turned off the steps to the right and walked on stone steps and a path that led to two root bridges, crossing two little streams that join together just downstream from the bridges. One of the bridges had very low root rails and wooden planks on one end, while the other was all roots, beautifully made.
We rested there for a while and then continued beyond the bridges, downhill on a path to a pineapple patch, with many plants and few pineapples. After the pineapple patch steep steps headed uphill. I continued a while and then decided to go back to the two root bridges. The other two continued. I walked back to the two bridges and spent about three hours there, from about 11 until about 2. I swam, or rather waded, in the little stream, dried off in the sun, and rinsed my shirt. I explored around the area, climbing up one of the streams through boulders. Lots of butterflies fluttered around and I spotted a spider web and many bugs walking atop the water in a little pool.
I walked back to Nongriat, a beautiful walk which took me only an hour and a quarter. With my altimeter I noted I first climbed 600 feet to the village we had walked through, and then descended 100 feet on the path to Nongriat. I counted 800 concrete stairs on that steep section just below the village. At Byron's I ate an omelet for a late lunch. The sky had become cloudy and I thought I heard thunder up the valley. Late in the afternoon I shaved and bathed in the cold water of the pool behind the weir near the double bridges.
I was up the next morning at 7:30 and about 9, after breakfast, set out with Joe, an Indian guy named Alok, and an Australian named Anna, heading upriver to Rainbow Falls. After crossing the wire suspension bridge upriver from Nongriat, and two beautiful root bridges just beyond, we began a steep ascent above the river. The jungle was beautiful, with lots of thick hanging vines on the trees in places. At first you could hear, but not see the river below. After about a 600 foot climb, the path began to drop towards the riverbank, about 200 feet altogether. Just before the final descent to the river we got our first view of Rainbow Falls, where the main river drops in three stages. Even in the dry season it is a beautiful sight, with a turquoise pool below the falls, huge boulders all along the river bed, and with jungle and cliffs along the river.
The others headed down to the pool while I spent some time admiring the view, and then made the final steep descent to the pool at the bottom of the falls, arriving about 10:30. The others had swum and were resting on the rocks. I swam through the large pool to the waterfall and then under the waterfall, taking a heavy beating. The pool was divided by a huge boulder into two halves, and I swam all around it. I walked through huge boulders up a tributary flowing into the main river just below the falls. About noon the sun disappeared behind clouds and we could hear thunder upriver. The others headed back, but I stayed for another hour, eating the omelet I had brought with me and enjoying the spectacular surroundings.
I started back about 1, stopping both above and below another, much smaller waterfall on the main river. I reached its top over boulders in the river bed. I spotted smoke and a burning tree on the other side of the river and made my way over to the tree. It still glowed orange-red in places, with a few small flames. Some rain fell and I could hear lots of thunder upriver. I walked back to the riverside path and then found a side path to the bottom of the falls, with I small pool I could swim in. I swam under this much shorter and gentler waterfall for a very nice massage on my shoulders, neck, and back. On the last part of the trail back to Nongriat, about 4, I diverted down a trail sloping down from the path between the suspension bridge and the two root bridges at the village's edge. I reached the river and swam in another pretty pool in the river. I got back to Nongriat just before dark and again bathed in the pool behind the weir near the two bridges.
The next morning I was up about 6:30 and walked all around the village. People were very friendly. Poinsettias and bougainvillea grew all around. I walked by a few white box bee hives at the back of the village. At one house strips of beef, from Shillong (I was told), were drying in the sun. Some had hair on them. The village ranges across a sort of indentation on the side of a tall hill, with great views out over the river valley. I had breakfast and then walked down to the double root bridges. Some of the village men were working on the weir that crosses the stream, so I watched that and looked around. I came back and talked with some of the other tourists at Byron's restaurant and then walked down to the main river 200 or so feet below the village, crossed the wire suspension bridge, and looked around and then sat at the edge of the river on the rocks below the bridge.
I walked back up to Nongriat about 1 for lunch. After lunch I headed to the wire suspension bridge upriver. On the way, at the double decker bridges, I met an man I was told is 96 years old. He was in great shape and had been walking along the path in the jungle. Two older women, one 67 and one 68 they told me, were sitting nearby, one selling homemade lemonade, so I bought a glass. I sat and talked with them for a while, with lots of giggling on their part. I took photographs of them and of the 96 year old man, also sitting with us, but very quiet. A young woman came along and took a photo of the four of us.
I eventually made my way to the wire suspension bridge and beyond. I enjoyed looking over the two root bridges just beyond the suspension bridge. I noticed a short ramp made of bamboo leading up to a giant black boulder overlooking the river. I walked across the ramp to the top of the boulder, with great views upriver. I spotted three tourists quite a bit upriver, above the small waterfall I had swum under the day before. The spotted me and waved, and I waved back. On the way back to Nongriat I again stopped at the pool in the river down the slope from the path, where I had swum the day before, and swam there again. I stopped at the village cemetery, just before the double bridges, and arrived back at Nongriat before dark.
The next morning I was up around 6:30 or 7 and took another walk around the village. The sky was cloudy. I had breakfast and sat around reading and talking after lunch. In the afternoon I took a slow walk to the two root bridges beyond the wire suspension bridge upriver, accompanied by butterflies and cicadas. I once again looked over these marvelous bridges and sat nearby. Soon a 15 year old boy walked by carrying a 40 kilogram (88 pound) bag of bay leaves on his back. I had seen many sacks of bay leaves, harvested from the forest, along the paths and in the village. He stopped and rested and told me that he attended school in Sohra (10th grade) Monday through Friday. He hoisted the big bag on his back, with a strap over his forehead, and continued across the root bridges and the swaying suspension bridge.
I saw him make four trips back and forth. Before the last one I walked down to the river to a shallow pool and sat on the rocks. His last sack was nearby. He arrived, drank from the pool and washed his face in it, and then sat for a while. He told me a kilogram of bay leaves fetches 25 rupees (about 40 cents). A 40 kilogram bag would be worth about $16. I watched him as he carefully adjusted his rope under the last bag of bay leaves and then squatted into his headband. He waved as he took off for Nongriat.
I got back to Nongriat about 5 for a bath in the pool by the double bridges. I sat until dark on the porch of the little wood house I'd been sleeping in and a villager walked by talking on a cell phone. That was a surprise. Just before dinner I watched Byron's brother-in-law stomping bay leaves to get them tightly into a big sack. At dinner I was talking with Byron and asked how his small red refrigerator, maybe five feet high, was brought to Nongriat. He told me that four years ago his now 78 year old father-in-law had brought it on his back down the steps from the road, across the suspension bridge, and then up the steps to Nongriat!
During the night I was awakened by thunder, very close lightning, and heavy rain from about 3:30 to 5:30. The next morning was cloudy. I could have happily spent more days at Nongriat, but after breakfast I left about 8, before it got too hot for the steep climb up to the road. I headed down to the river, crossed it by the suspension bridge, and then began the climb up. Though the sky was cloudy I had good views back toward Nongriat. Unlike the walk down when I arrived, now I could identify what I was seeing in the village. A few other tourists and quite a few Khasi were also headed up, many of the Khasi headed, as was I, to the market in Sohra held every eight days. As I remember, I was outpaced by a woman with a child on her back.
The day was a Saturday and a big Khasi church group on a day trip came down the steps. Quite a few Indian tourists on a day trips came down, too. The sky had been darkening and it started to rain just as I was getting to the top, a pre-monsoon rainstorm. I huddled for a while under the porch of a church and then made my way to shared taxis headed to Sohra. I reached the top about 10, but had to wait a while for a place in a shared taxi, as there were a lot of waiting passengers. I finally got one and headed to Sohra under a heavy rain. It was so rainy you couldn't see the scenery.
Sohra was rainy and cold. I briefly walked around the open market and then huddled in a friendly shop. Lots of people had umbrellas. I was cold and wet and headed into a little restaurant to have lunch and warm up. Inside, I put on the extensions to my shorts to make them into trousers. I ate some dumplings and they tasted good.
The rain stopped and there was even a little sun. I spent about an hour wandering through the market, with Khasi people from all over, then took a shared taxi to the lodge where I had stayed before to pick up my backpack, which I had left there during my stay in Nongriat. I took a sumo back to Shillong, leaving about 3 and getting there about 4:30, with no rain on the way. Sohra was cold, too, and I checked into a hotel on the pedestrian mall, warmer than the one I had stayed in before.
The jungle was beautiful, though the sky was hazy. You could see far down into the forested valley as you headed down the steep concrete steps. I encountered three western tourists and six Indian tourists coming up. At about 1400 feet elevation Nitin and I came across the first of the incredible root bridges the area is famous for. Over decades, maybe over centuries, the local Khasi people have ingeniously trained roots of fig trees to cross streams to form narrow bridges. The roots from a fig tree from one side are directed to weave together with the roots from a fig tree on the other side. Some roots make up the floor and others the sides of the root bridge. These are some of the most amazing things I have ever seen. They are very sturdy. Sometimes stones or other pieces of wood are placed into gaps in the floor. Nitin and I spent about an hour at this first bridge, walking across it several times and looking at it from both sides and from the stream below. The stream was filled with huge boulders.
We continued down, past white box bee hives near some houses, and reached the end of the concrete stairs and the start of older, stone stairs and a dirt path a little before reaching the big river than has created this jungle valley. These older stone steps were much more attractive than the newer concrete ones, though I suppose the new ones will be easier to maintain. I was later told the concrete stairs were built just in the last 5 to 10 years. We reached the big river, at about 1000 feet elevation and filled with boulders. It is low this time of year before the monsoon. We crossed it by a long suspension bridge made of wire, and it swung as we crossed. On the other side we made a steep climb up more concrete steps to the little village of Nongriat, more than 200 feet above the river, arriving about 1.
Nongriat is a very pretty little village on a jungle-covered hillside with about 200 people living in houses spread out among betel nut trees. Concrete paths and steps now lead around the village. Byron, a Khasi former school teacher, has set up a very small hotel in the village. It was full, but he found us a place to sleep in a wooden house with three other tourists. We all slept on mats on the floor. There were maybe 25 tourists in that little village, many of us staying in village houses. Ours accommodated only us tourists, but other tourists stayed with families.
I sat at Byron's little restaurant, ate lunch, enjoyed the view over the valley, and talked to the other tourists. About 3 I took a walk with several others upriver to another wire suspension bridge over the main river, only maybe 15 minutes away. Just beyond the edge of Nongriat, on the way to the upriver suspension bridge, is a magnificent double decker root bridge over a stream. I guess it is more accurate to say there are two root bridges, one over and very slightly downstream from the lower one. Unfortunately, the area nearby had been heavily concreted to create a pool behind a small weir for washing and bathing, so the double bridges are not in as scenic a spot as formerly. I was told a documentary film company put lots of leaves all over the concrete so its filming of the bridges would be more appealing.
We reached the wire suspension bridge after a beautiful walk through jungle. The Romanian violinist I had met in Shillong was with us, and her German boyfriend filmed her playing her violin in the center of the long, swaying bridge. Then we all crossed the bridge and walked down to the river on the other side. We swam in a pool created by giant boulders a bit away from the fast moving river. The huge jumble of boulders on either side of the river indicated how low the river was from its peak. The water was cold, but I soon got used to it and dried in the sun. That served as my bath for the day.
We all sat around and then walked back to Nongriat for dinner. Byron and his wife cook a big common meal each night, which wasn't great but was filling. The night was beautiful and I didn't go to bed until sometime between 11 and 12. The wood building where I slept had windows with no screens (or glass for that matter), but there were no mosquitoes. Though Nongriat is only at about 1200-1300 feet elevation, according to my altimeter, the night air was cool. I feel asleep hearing cicadas and other sounds of the jungle.
The next morning I was up about 7:30 and had tea, and then porridge with apples, peanuts, cashews and honey at Byron's little restaurant. It became hot in the sun as the morning progressed. About 9:30 I left with Nitin and an English guy named Joe who had been working in Kirghizstan on a walk. We made our way to the church at the southern end of the village (the double bridges are at the northern end; the river valley runs generally north-south, with Nongriat on a hillside on the western side) and from there into the jungle on a path wrapping around the steep hill and heading south far above the river. After about half an hour on that pretty path we came to another little village, with more friendly people, and then continued out of the village down steep concrete steps, dropping about 400 feet. The concrete steps continued down, reaching, I think, a tributary of the main river, but we turned off the steps to the right and walked on stone steps and a path that led to two root bridges, crossing two little streams that join together just downstream from the bridges. One of the bridges had very low root rails and wooden planks on one end, while the other was all roots, beautifully made.
We rested there for a while and then continued beyond the bridges, downhill on a path to a pineapple patch, with many plants and few pineapples. After the pineapple patch steep steps headed uphill. I continued a while and then decided to go back to the two root bridges. The other two continued. I walked back to the two bridges and spent about three hours there, from about 11 until about 2. I swam, or rather waded, in the little stream, dried off in the sun, and rinsed my shirt. I explored around the area, climbing up one of the streams through boulders. Lots of butterflies fluttered around and I spotted a spider web and many bugs walking atop the water in a little pool.
I walked back to Nongriat, a beautiful walk which took me only an hour and a quarter. With my altimeter I noted I first climbed 600 feet to the village we had walked through, and then descended 100 feet on the path to Nongriat. I counted 800 concrete stairs on that steep section just below the village. At Byron's I ate an omelet for a late lunch. The sky had become cloudy and I thought I heard thunder up the valley. Late in the afternoon I shaved and bathed in the cold water of the pool behind the weir near the double bridges.
I was up the next morning at 7:30 and about 9, after breakfast, set out with Joe, an Indian guy named Alok, and an Australian named Anna, heading upriver to Rainbow Falls. After crossing the wire suspension bridge upriver from Nongriat, and two beautiful root bridges just beyond, we began a steep ascent above the river. The jungle was beautiful, with lots of thick hanging vines on the trees in places. At first you could hear, but not see the river below. After about a 600 foot climb, the path began to drop towards the riverbank, about 200 feet altogether. Just before the final descent to the river we got our first view of Rainbow Falls, where the main river drops in three stages. Even in the dry season it is a beautiful sight, with a turquoise pool below the falls, huge boulders all along the river bed, and with jungle and cliffs along the river.
The others headed down to the pool while I spent some time admiring the view, and then made the final steep descent to the pool at the bottom of the falls, arriving about 10:30. The others had swum and were resting on the rocks. I swam through the large pool to the waterfall and then under the waterfall, taking a heavy beating. The pool was divided by a huge boulder into two halves, and I swam all around it. I walked through huge boulders up a tributary flowing into the main river just below the falls. About noon the sun disappeared behind clouds and we could hear thunder upriver. The others headed back, but I stayed for another hour, eating the omelet I had brought with me and enjoying the spectacular surroundings.
I started back about 1, stopping both above and below another, much smaller waterfall on the main river. I reached its top over boulders in the river bed. I spotted smoke and a burning tree on the other side of the river and made my way over to the tree. It still glowed orange-red in places, with a few small flames. Some rain fell and I could hear lots of thunder upriver. I walked back to the riverside path and then found a side path to the bottom of the falls, with I small pool I could swim in. I swam under this much shorter and gentler waterfall for a very nice massage on my shoulders, neck, and back. On the last part of the trail back to Nongriat, about 4, I diverted down a trail sloping down from the path between the suspension bridge and the two root bridges at the village's edge. I reached the river and swam in another pretty pool in the river. I got back to Nongriat just before dark and again bathed in the pool behind the weir near the two bridges.
The next morning I was up about 6:30 and walked all around the village. People were very friendly. Poinsettias and bougainvillea grew all around. I walked by a few white box bee hives at the back of the village. At one house strips of beef, from Shillong (I was told), were drying in the sun. Some had hair on them. The village ranges across a sort of indentation on the side of a tall hill, with great views out over the river valley. I had breakfast and then walked down to the double root bridges. Some of the village men were working on the weir that crosses the stream, so I watched that and looked around. I came back and talked with some of the other tourists at Byron's restaurant and then walked down to the main river 200 or so feet below the village, crossed the wire suspension bridge, and looked around and then sat at the edge of the river on the rocks below the bridge.
I walked back up to Nongriat about 1 for lunch. After lunch I headed to the wire suspension bridge upriver. On the way, at the double decker bridges, I met an man I was told is 96 years old. He was in great shape and had been walking along the path in the jungle. Two older women, one 67 and one 68 they told me, were sitting nearby, one selling homemade lemonade, so I bought a glass. I sat and talked with them for a while, with lots of giggling on their part. I took photographs of them and of the 96 year old man, also sitting with us, but very quiet. A young woman came along and took a photo of the four of us.
I eventually made my way to the wire suspension bridge and beyond. I enjoyed looking over the two root bridges just beyond the suspension bridge. I noticed a short ramp made of bamboo leading up to a giant black boulder overlooking the river. I walked across the ramp to the top of the boulder, with great views upriver. I spotted three tourists quite a bit upriver, above the small waterfall I had swum under the day before. The spotted me and waved, and I waved back. On the way back to Nongriat I again stopped at the pool in the river down the slope from the path, where I had swum the day before, and swam there again. I stopped at the village cemetery, just before the double bridges, and arrived back at Nongriat before dark.
The next morning I was up around 6:30 or 7 and took another walk around the village. The sky was cloudy. I had breakfast and sat around reading and talking after lunch. In the afternoon I took a slow walk to the two root bridges beyond the wire suspension bridge upriver, accompanied by butterflies and cicadas. I once again looked over these marvelous bridges and sat nearby. Soon a 15 year old boy walked by carrying a 40 kilogram (88 pound) bag of bay leaves on his back. I had seen many sacks of bay leaves, harvested from the forest, along the paths and in the village. He stopped and rested and told me that he attended school in Sohra (10th grade) Monday through Friday. He hoisted the big bag on his back, with a strap over his forehead, and continued across the root bridges and the swaying suspension bridge.
I saw him make four trips back and forth. Before the last one I walked down to the river to a shallow pool and sat on the rocks. His last sack was nearby. He arrived, drank from the pool and washed his face in it, and then sat for a while. He told me a kilogram of bay leaves fetches 25 rupees (about 40 cents). A 40 kilogram bag would be worth about $16. I watched him as he carefully adjusted his rope under the last bag of bay leaves and then squatted into his headband. He waved as he took off for Nongriat.
I got back to Nongriat about 5 for a bath in the pool by the double bridges. I sat until dark on the porch of the little wood house I'd been sleeping in and a villager walked by talking on a cell phone. That was a surprise. Just before dinner I watched Byron's brother-in-law stomping bay leaves to get them tightly into a big sack. At dinner I was talking with Byron and asked how his small red refrigerator, maybe five feet high, was brought to Nongriat. He told me that four years ago his now 78 year old father-in-law had brought it on his back down the steps from the road, across the suspension bridge, and then up the steps to Nongriat!
During the night I was awakened by thunder, very close lightning, and heavy rain from about 3:30 to 5:30. The next morning was cloudy. I could have happily spent more days at Nongriat, but after breakfast I left about 8, before it got too hot for the steep climb up to the road. I headed down to the river, crossed it by the suspension bridge, and then began the climb up. Though the sky was cloudy I had good views back toward Nongriat. Unlike the walk down when I arrived, now I could identify what I was seeing in the village. A few other tourists and quite a few Khasi were also headed up, many of the Khasi headed, as was I, to the market in Sohra held every eight days. As I remember, I was outpaced by a woman with a child on her back.
The day was a Saturday and a big Khasi church group on a day trip came down the steps. Quite a few Indian tourists on a day trips came down, too. The sky had been darkening and it started to rain just as I was getting to the top, a pre-monsoon rainstorm. I huddled for a while under the porch of a church and then made my way to shared taxis headed to Sohra. I reached the top about 10, but had to wait a while for a place in a shared taxi, as there were a lot of waiting passengers. I finally got one and headed to Sohra under a heavy rain. It was so rainy you couldn't see the scenery.
Sohra was rainy and cold. I briefly walked around the open market and then huddled in a friendly shop. Lots of people had umbrellas. I was cold and wet and headed into a little restaurant to have lunch and warm up. Inside, I put on the extensions to my shorts to make them into trousers. I ate some dumplings and they tasted good.
The rain stopped and there was even a little sun. I spent about an hour wandering through the market, with Khasi people from all over, then took a shared taxi to the lodge where I had stayed before to pick up my backpack, which I had left there during my stay in Nongriat. I took a sumo back to Shillong, leaving about 3 and getting there about 4:30, with no rain on the way. Sohra was cold, too, and I checked into a hotel on the pedestrian mall, warmer than the one I had stayed in before.
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